Tokyo Travel Guide

European cities usually grow around a square. Tokyo grew around railway stations. The loop line called the Yamanote circles the heart of the city like a ring, and every major station on that ring — Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ueno, Tokyo — behaves like a city centre in its own right, with its own skyscrapers, its own underground shopping streets and its own drinking alleys.

That's why there's no honest answer to "where is the centre of Tokyo?". If you build your trip not around covering the whole city but around really seeing one or two neighbourhoods a day, you'll get less tired and see more. Getting from one end of the Yamanote line to the other takes half an hour; a plan aiming for three neighbourhoods a day means spending a large part of the day on a train.

Another unusual detail: most streets in Tokyo have no name. Addresses are made up of the district, block and building number. Even locals look at a map when going somewhere; you will too, and there's nothing embarrassing about it.

The neighbourhoods below genuinely have different characters. Rather than squeezing them all into one day, group them in pairs; combining those that are geographically close makes the day easier.

It's genuinely hard to eat badly in Tokyo. The city's strength comes less from its starred restaurants than from small shops that have done one thing for decades. A seven-seat ramen counter, a family business that makes only tempura, a soba stand under a station — that's where real Tokyo food is.

Don't miss: sushi (especially in the morning, around the market), ramen (every neighbourhood has its own style), tempura, tonkatsu, soba and unagi. Street-food culture isn't as strong as in Osaka; in Tokyo, food is mostly eaten sitting down, quietly and quickly.

Two practical notes: there's no tipping in Japan, and trying to leave a tip will be politely refused. Many small places have a ticket machine at the door — you buy your ticket first, then sit at the counter.

These two get confused because of a split in 2018. The wholesale market and the famous tuna auction moved to Toyosu. But the Tsukiji Outer Market, where travellers actually go, didn't close; it carries on with many shops and restaurants.

The practical distinction is this: if you're going to eat and look around, go to the Tsukiji Outer Market. It's morning-focused, but every business has different days and hours; don't rely on a single opening and closing rule. If you want to watch the tuna auction, you need to go to Toyosu: under the current official arrangement the auction takes place roughly 05:30–06:30, the upper visitor corridor can be seen without a reservation, and the lower observation area closer to the glass is limited in numbers and allocated by lottery in advance.

Honest advice: unless you're curious enough to get up at four in the morning, the auction can be skipped. A bowl of seafood eaten in the outer market at half past eight gives most travellers a better morning.

In Tokyo, a hotel's distance from the station matters more than its star rating. The difference between "5 minutes' walk" and "12 minutes' walk" is felt twice a day, with luggage, in the heat.

Shinjuku — the most lines, the most options, lively even late at night. The safest choice for first-timers. The trade-off: it's noisy.

Tokyo Station / Marunouchi — mostly business hotels, quiet, with very easy Narita and Shinkansen connections. Weak evening life.

Asakusa — more affordable, traditional character, ideal for morning sightseeing. Its distance from the central lines is its only weakness.

Shibuya — young and lively, with shopping and food within walking distance. Prices are high.

Ueno — one of the best neighbourhoods for balancing price and location; it has a direct connection to Narita, and the park and market are within walking distance.

Haneda (HND) is much closer to the city; by monorail or the Keikyu line you reach the centre in around half an hour. If Haneda is among your flight options, factor in this difference before choosing Narita, even if Narita is somewhat cheaper.

Narita (NRT) is far from the city; the connection to the centre takes about an hour by express train and longer by bus, depending on traffic. On flights landing late at night, check the last train time in advance — if you miss it, a taxi fare in Japan is a serious sum.

Getting an IC card (Suica or Pasmo) when you arrive makes things easier. Where physical visitor cards are sold may change; a digital card on a compatible phone is also an option. It works on the metro, JR, buses and in convenience stores, so you don't have to buy a ticket every time you board.

Tokyo doesn't have a single metro company. Tokyo Metro, Toei and JR are separate operators; the same station name may correspond to different places on different companies' networks. An IC card largely solves this complexity, because you don't have to think about whose line you're boarding.

Pay attention to exit numbers at big stations. Shinjuku has dozens of exits, and coming out of the wrong one can leave you ten minutes from where you're going. Noting the exit number next to your destination in advance is the first local habit you learn in Tokyo.

The last trains leave around midnight; after that the city doesn't go quiet, but getting around gets expensive. If you're going to be late, either work out the last train or plan to be somewhere open until the first train in the morning — Tokyo isn't the only city where people do this, but it's one of the most comfortable.

Spring (late March–May) is the most popular period. Cherry blossoms usually fall between late March and early April, but the date changes every year and is squeezed into a one-week window; buying tickets around it is risky.

Autumn (October–November) is, in my view, the better option: balanced weather, low humidity, fewer crowds, and in late November maple colours come down into the city's parks.

Summer (June–August) is hot and very humid; June is the rainy season. Sightseeing on foot in August is genuinely tiring. Winter, on the other hand, is clear and dry, crowds thin out and your chances of seeing Fuji go up — and prices are lower.

The idea that Tokyo is expensive is somewhat out of date. Accommodation and taxis are expensive, but food is surprisingly reasonable: a filling meal in a small eatery usually costs less than in the big cities of Western Europe.

Three items strain your budget: hotels, long-distance trains and museum/tower admissions. Invest in the first (location really matters) and be selective with the other two. The city has plenty of free viewpoints.

Carry cash. Card use has spread, but small eateries, temple entrances and some market shops still take cash only.

Don't talk on the phone on the metro. Silence is a rule of courtesy here; being the only person talking in the carriage gets noticed.

Finish your food where the business indicates, without littering. In some markets and sacred sites, eating while walking is clearly unwelcome; follow local signs and carry your packaging back with you.

Don't over-plan. The best moments in Tokyo are usually unplanned: the street you find after taking the wrong exit, the bar you walk into through a door whose name you can't read.

You can send your luggage ahead. Forwarding a suitcase from hotel to hotel between cities is a common service; confirming the delivery time and acceptance conditions with the hotel makes the train journey noticeably easier.