Kyoto Travel Guide

In Kyoto, what time you see a temple matters more than which temple you see. Visiting Kinkaku-ji at eleven in the morning and at nine in the morning is like being in two different cities. Same garden, same gold leaf, a completely different experience.

In practice that means: start your day at half past seven, finish the two most popular places in the first hours of the morning, spend the middle of the day in quieter neighbourhoods or a museum, and go out again in the late afternoon. In Kyoto, 11:00–15:00 is a time to rest, not to sightsee.

The second rule: don't plan more than three temples a day. Distances between temples in Kyoto are long and city traffic is heavy. Taking in three temples properly is both more enjoyable and more memorable than racing through six.

There's no such thing as "the best temple" in Kyoto; there are places offering completely different experiences. I've grouped those below by character so you can choose from the list.

In Gion, don't enter private property or side lanes marked as closed to entry. Signs may be in Japanese and English; some private lanes carry warnings of fines for unauthorised entry. Being on a public street also doesn't give you the right to photograph people up close without permission, follow them or block their way.

The restrictions don't close the whole of Gion. Hanamikoji is a public street also open to traffic; Yasaka Shrine and the public roads around it can be visited. The limit is the signposted private passages and residential entrances. If you're unsure of a road's status, stay on the main route.

The reason for this rule isn't hostility to tourism. For years, people who live and work here were photographed without permission, followed, and had their private property entered. Geiko aren't a tourist show; they're working people on their way to work. If you meet one in the street, don't block her way or stop her for a photo.

The best time to see Gion is late afternoon, as it starts to get dark. The lanterns come on, the restaurants open, and for a short while the street becomes cinematic. You don't need to break any rules for that.

Kyoto is a city far from the sea and surrounded by mountains. Its cooking is built on that geography: centred not on seafood but on vegetables, tofu, pickles and dashi. After Tokyo's fast, filling food, Kyoto may seem light at first; after a few meals you realise how refined it is.

Kaiseki is the most formal form of Japanese cuisine: a multi-course menu arranged by season. It's expensive and needs a reservation. If your budget allows, Kyoto is the right city to try it.

Shojin ryori, meanwhile, is temple cuisine — entirely plant-based, a tradition that aims for simplicity. Vegetarians and vegans usually have a hard time in Japan; Kyoto is the easiest city in the country in this respect.

Things to try: yudofu (hot tofu, especially in winter), obanzai (home-style seasonal side dishes), yuba (tofu skin), matcha sweets and Kyoto's famous pickles, tsukemono. The Uji area is Japan's matcha centre, which is why the tea you drink in the city is of such high quality.

This covered market, called "Kyoto's kitchen", is a narrow street running for five hundred metres. Everything from pickles to tofu, fresh seafood to kitchen knives is here.

The rule you need to know is this: eating while walking is not welcome. Market traders ask visitors to eat what they buy in front of or inside the shop they bought it from. The reason is both that dropped food makes the narrow street slippery and that skewers carried in hand bump into people in the crowd. The rule makes sense and is easy to follow: buy, step aside, eat there.

The market gets busy in the afternoon, and many shops start closing in the late afternoon. Going in the morning is more relaxed, but some stalls open late. The most balanced time is just before midday.

Around Kyoto Station — The most practical option for transport, with the Shinkansen, bus terminal and airport connection right at your feet. The trade-off: the area is soulless, not somewhere you'll take an evening stroll.

Gion / Higashiyama — The most atmospheric area: wooden houses, narrow streets, evening lanterns. Prices are high, but if you're coming to Kyoto once, staying here changes the experience.

Kawaramachi / Pontocho — The city's food and drink hub, with restaurants, bars and Nishiki within walking distance. Lively at night, central by day.

Arashiyama — Far from the city, quiet, close to nature. A good choice if you're in Kyoto for the second time or looking for peace; on a first visit it's too far from the centre.

A suggestion: if you can, stay a night in a machiya. These are narrow-fronted, long and deep traditional Kyoto houses; many have been restored and opened as accommodation. They tell you much more than a hotel room does.

Kyoto's metro network has two lines, so buses play an important role on tourist routes. Buses towards Kinkaku-ji and Gion can fill up in peak season and get caught in traffic. Boarding with a big suitcase makes moving around harder for you and other passengers alike; consider station and hotel luggage services.

Practical strategy: wherever possible, choose the train and metro. Fushimi Inari, Arashiyama and Uji are reached by train. Use the bus only when there's no other option, and preferably early in the morning rather than in the middle of the day.

Kyoto is also an ideal city for cycling: largely flat and laid out on a grid. If you're staying centrally, renting a bike for a day is both faster and more enjoyable than waiting for buses.

Ticket and pass options have changed in recent years; if you're buying a one-day or multi-day pass, check its coverage and price with a current source before you go. Your IC card (including Suica/Pasmo) also works in Kyoto.

Give Kyoto at least 3 full days. Two days is enough to see the main sights, but you'll have rushed through the city. Four days comfortably fits a day trip to Nara or Uji as well.

The answer to "can I stay in Osaka and visit Kyoto as a day trip?" is technically yes — the train takes half an hour. But Kyoto's best hours are early morning and late evening; a day trip means missing exactly those two windows. Do it if your budget demands, but ideally stay in Kyoto.

November is Kyoto's peak month. The maples turn red and the weather is cool and dry. In return the city has its most crowded time of year, and hotels fill up months in advance.

Early April is cherry blossom season; magnificent, but the date shifts from year to year and the window is a week. Buying tickets locked to this date is risky.

December–February is the most underrated but most rewarding period: the crowds disperse, temple gardens become misty and silent, and on the rare occasions it snows, the sight of Kinkaku-ji is unforgettable. Go prepared for the cold.

The June rainy season and August heat are the two hardest periods. If you're going in summer, spread your plans across morning and evening and spend midday indoors.

Silence is expected in temple gardens. In Kyoto, temples aren't tourist sites but places where people still worship. Talking loudly gets noticed.

Obey no-photography signs. Photography is forbidden inside many temples; the rule is clearly posted.

Be respectful when renting a kimono. It's a common and welcome activity, but remember that where you wear it isn't a costume party.

Don't try to fit everything into one day. This is the most common mistake in Kyoto. Sitting and lingering at three temples is far better than visiting eight and remembering none.

Have cash on you. At small temples, admission and omamori sales are mostly cash.